Tuesday, May 31, 2016

Out-of-sides Listening


Andrew Post, 2016 Ideas Incubator Fellow, USA

I’d visited the barren flagpole that marked the Ludlow Massacre. In Walsenberg Colorado on April 20, 1914 the National Guard killed dozens of workers striking from work in the mines. I’d traveled through the deserted highways of the American West. Highways that run through current reservations where passengers in air conditioned cars slide over sites of silenced massacres, such as Sand Creek Massacre. I’d even stood in Plaza Mayor in Madrid, where authorities of the Spanish crown conducted procesos de fe, torturing and burning conversos—the Sephardic Jews victim of the Spanish Inquisition. Today we visited a place called Treblinka. 


Preparing to visit a site where 900,000 Jews, Roma, and prisoners of war were murdered was unlike my previous confrontations with mass death sites. What would this place feel like? Can the death of so many become tangibly infused into a place? Tomasz Cebulski, a genealogist and expert in comparative genocide studies, advised the following: we as the living who make the journey three-quarters of a century after the Holocaust will never know the full pain or loss. Empathy can only stretch so far when our fates are safe within a luxury coach bus, prodding along a rainy highway in a non-warring nation-state. Why, then, make this demanding journey? At the end of this day I find two reasons. First, identifying the steps of genocide is not only a reflection on the past, but meditation on the present and preparation for the future. Second, it is a necessary paradox of the living to try to commemorate the dead. These points are not separate from each other.

The Path to Genocide 

A theme in our first four days as HIA Polska Fellows has been the progression of a genocide, from classification to extermination and denial. The thriving culture of Jews living in Warsaw in 1939—who made up one third of the city’s population—were labeled, ostracized, and imprisoned under German Nazi occupation. The multiplicities of Jewish life were first forced to wear armbands of the Star of David. SS mandates enforced the confiscation of Jewish property and enforced separate curfews for Jews, Poles, and Germans. Soon 400,000 Jews were confined to the 1.3 square miles of the “little” and “large” ghettos, connected only by a foot bridge. We have attempted to trace the fading outlines of the Warsaw Ghetto where remnants of original structures are now topped with not-so-sleek office buildings. This misty morning we whisked by the cold stone memorial of the Umschlagplatz, where over 300,000 Polish Jews were forced into over-packed train cars, destined for death at Treblinka. 

We have witnessed the progression of the Warsaw ghetto genocide. Yet the conversation and discussion of today urged each Fellow to realize that this is not some dark nightmare of human history. As Cebulski said, “human beings unfortunately have a certain malfunction.” This malfunction is the systematic murdering of targeted populations. As we talked about today, this malfunction has repeated itself in our own lifetimes: Rwanda, Bosnia, Darfur. Our job as active humans, is to question how this happens, why this happens, and to raise awareness to instances where patterns of genocide are or have the potential to happen again. How is this done?


Our Path to Action 

There is no one answer. We as Fellows are beginning to discover possible ways to check this malfunction. Maybe we want to hold the Polish government accountable to their constitution, and will camp outside their office until they know the complaints. Maybe we have worked in the office of the Ombudsman, yet refuse to be satisfied by circumventing answers pertaining to the human rights of half the Polish population. Maybe we are medical researchers who prioritize patient-doctor communication, or designers who fight cyberbullying with creative campaigns. Or we may probe into how Warsaw’s past and present could teach us about issues and places dear to our hearts, such as the decades of impunity in Honduras that threaten to instill a generational negligence towards violence.

Based on the conversation and action I have observed among this cohort of Fellows, I am inspired by how we all want to stall this continual human malfunction that is genocide. I am excited too, to see how and if we can focus our efforts to target certain sources and signs of malfunction. Yet effective action in whatever we choose will be demanding.

I have no doubt that we individually can act, and have acted. But what does our harmonious action require? Today at Treblinka, I witnessed a sprinkling—an inkling—of something that may assist us in acting not only concertedly, but in concert. This moment came as we huddled under the canopy of leaves lining the path of the monument’s walkway. I treaded over sopping leaves and stared upwards at the spectrum of greens that were nonetheless vibrant in a grey sky. Being in a forest brimming with life—and having many happy associations of witnessing natural beauty in wild places like this—made the contrast of the atrocities and murder of Treblinka that much more difficult to reconcile. These very trees had witnessed the mass murder on an incomprehensible scale. They were also the same one’s featured in one man’s nostalgic photo album from Treblinka labelled “The Good Old Days.” These trees were burned and chopped to prepare the places of extermination. They also comfort and remind us of natural beauty in the site of some of the most unnatural ugliness of humankind. What can they tell us?

I decided to record the scene using my phone. It’s a two-and-a-half-minute recording. It begins with rain pattering the trees and curious birds warning of the storm. Our earnest conversations flutter on in the background, then increasingly the foreground. I walk around to sample the eager conversations from our group and our sister tour group. There are discussions about who is to blame for inaction in genocide, about the rain, about the correct usage of Nazi, about interviews, and much more. Human conversation is good, but much more is said. The recording ends with the crescendo of the patter rain on leaves, chatter from the trees.



This excerpt is abstract, yes. Far-fetched? maybe. Yet during this entire recording the chatter of living human voices is inescapable. We are wondering, worrying, and talking of important things. But we are also going on with business as usual in a place of tragic significance—of unspeakable significance. This work is about demanding our rights and helping to voice the rights of marginalized groups, yes. But it is also about listening to things that reach beyond the worlds of human injustices. Our causes and qualms are pressing, but they will find realization only if they listen and adapt to the voices around them, and give pause before speaking over the voices before them.  

Honoring and remembering are not always about facts, arguments, and preventative educations. Honoring death is a human ritual, but it is rarely routine.  

   

              

Sunday, May 29, 2016

Praga: a second life or a slow death?


Aleksander Bucholski, 2016 Ideas Incubator Fellow, Poland
Mariia Veselovska, 2016 Ideas Incubator Fellow, Ukraine

Who does the city belong to? Whose needs should urban policies serve? Or should there be any urban policies at all apart from day-to-day management? Those were the questions crossing my mind as we were walking down Brzeska Street, described to us as notoriously dangerous to the point of becoming a tourist attraction. Five minute walk from a shopping mall and glamorous new metro station, five minute tram ride from meticulously reconstructed Old Town, we found ourselves in what had been presented to us as a dodgy armpit of the world, or at least of Warsaw.


It didn’t take for the legend of Brzeska Street to unfold: the sidewalk had been blocked by two big police vehicles, around which some dozen locals gathered to watch another episode of a well-known drama. One of the thugs noticed us filming the happening and started approaching us, demanding us to put down our cameras; the police remained indifferent. Hadn’t it been for the fact we were an organised group, some of us would not have got away safely.

But then, I was thinking walking through another courtyard accompanied by locals trying to draw our attention producing inarticulate noises, maybe their aggression is justified? Haven’t we basically treated them as a living exhibit, next to the Museum of Warsaw Praga or the former vodka factory at Ząbkowska Street?


Ironically enough, it was not until recently Praga was missing completely from all but alternative tourist routes, despite its fascinating, sometimes tragic history. Officially a part of the city of Warsaw since 1791, in 17th, 18th and 19th centuries Praga was plundered, destroyed and burned to the ground many times, i.a. during the Swedish invasion of 1655-1660, in the massacre of Praga on November 4, 1794 during the Kościuszko Uprising, during Napoleonic wars or during the November Uprising of 1830-31.




The birth of Praga as we know it started in the mid-19th century with the construction of the Petersburg and Brest Train Stations and the Kierbedzia Bridge – the first steel bridge over the Vistula River in Warsaw, along with a horse-drawn tram connecting Praga with the centre of Warsaw. Praga had become a major transportation and industrial hub. What is more, the district survived the Second World War relatively intact. On September 13, 1944 Soviet Army reached the right bank of the Vistula River in Warsaw and saved Praga from planned destruction of the city conducted by the Nazis after they had suppressed the Warsaw Uprising. Thus Praga has become an open-air museum of pre-war architecture and urban planning in the capital, which allowed e.g. for Ząbkowska Street to feature in the Academy Award-winning movie ‘The Pianist’ by Roman Polanski.
However, an open-air museum that haven’t been refurbished for decades is dangerously close to a slum. And once Praga was labelled as such, it has been more or less invisible to other inhabitants, city authorities, tourists and business ever since. Many old buildings in the district lack basic utilities: central heating system, gas or even running water. In 2011 a thorough medical survey revealed that the difference in life expectancy between Praga and the most affluent districts of Wilanów and Ursynów is 15 years[1]. Absence of basic living conditions caused a set of problems: higher unemployment rate, higher poverty rate, crime, domestic violence.

Then, since the mid-2000s, things have started to change significantly. At first, some independent galleries and concert venues, like the legendary Fabryka Trzciny, appeared. Then Ząbkowska, Okrzei and 11 Listopada Streets were slowly conquered by a number of cafes, restaurants, and clubs. In 2007 the vodka factory at Ząbkowska Street shut down and turned into a cultural hub.

In an article from 2010 title Creeping gentrification Jan Śpiewak, one of the HIA Senior Fellows, remarks ironically that The changes resemble an invasion of newcomers from a faraway country. They have set up their settlements and introduced their bizarre customs – like drinking a 10 zł coffee. They dress differently and, seemingly, speak different language. And they only interact with the „indigenous people” when they need to do some basic trade, like buying some bread or flour. They enjoy discovering local culture, which brings out a genuine pioneer in them. Looking at a Catholic shrine they feel as emotional as Howard Carter did the moment he discovered the grave of Tutankhamun. And the autochthones are happy too, as finally somebody has discovered them; they have become an object of someone’s interest.[2]

The most probable turning point and a major boost were the preparations for the UEFA Euro 2012 football championship. Polish National Stadium was built with the aim to develop the image of the district and bring tourist to it. And it has. The right bank has been reclaimed by the mainstream society. In 2014, after many years of the Museum of Warsaw Praga was opened, not far from the legendary Różyckiego Market and since then the history of Praga has been included in the official tourist narrative.

However at the same time more and more inhabitants of Praga have been ousted from their houses. Today Brzeska Street looks morbid not because of thugs but because of endless rows of dead empty windows. The former vodka factory now belongs to a developer, and even though there are plans to set up a museum of vodka there, next to a Google-founded Campus Warsaw, the main objective is to adapt the site for office spaces. After a brief period of artistic freedom, the factory premises have become a closed enclave once again. Only this time there will be no jobs for the locals there.


Is then that creeping gentrification something new or previously unknown? Surprising? Given the history of Williamsburg in New York, Notting Hill in London or Prenzlauer Berg in Berlin, to just name a few, Warsaw should have been prepared for that. Yet what mayor, especially of an aspiring metropolis, would be willing to stop a steady flow of capital? After all, it’s not that former inhabitants of Praga have been left sleeping rough. Many of them have been resettled further uptown, some decided to move out on their own. If they have a place to live, it shouldn’t be a problem, right?

But it is a problem. A problem of eradicating a decades-old communities, depriving them of their identity, the last frame of reference that helped their members navigate through more and more complicated modern life. Just like Europeans almost wiped out indigenous nations in Americas or Australia, yuppies and developers have been killing the city, not in its physical form, as it sometimes gets improved, but in its very essence, which is the society.

And suddenly it struck me: aren’t we the part of the problem? Aren’t we, a group of young international human rights activists marching right through somebody’s courtyard, one of those invisible forces of gentrification that sooner or later going to ousts current inhabitants from their little homeland to make more space for those who will be able to afford it? Have we forgotten that social and cultural rights are human rights too? Let’s hope that our visit to Praga opens our eyes to the complexity of all the issues we will deal with in the future. As sometimes the roots of the problem might look perfectly innocent, simply because there are not enough people who see it as a problem. Gentrification will continue all over the world as long as we allow it.




[1] http://warszawa.wyborcza.pl/warszawa/1,34889,9051951,Na_Pradze_Polnoc_zyje_sie_15_lat_krocej__Dlaczego_.html
[2] http://kulturaliberalna.pl/2010/10/05/spiewak-gentryfikacja-pragi/ [Translated from original Polish by AB]